Life in (one part of) Ecuador

My family has been asking a lot about what Ecuador is like and how I am adjusting - and we are SO accustomed to constant phone calls, courtesy of a cell phone family plan, that the past few days have been a big change for us in communicating. And I finally stopped constantly reaching for my phone to call mom, dad, Brother (that´s his name), or Vinay, as was the usual several times a DAY in in the States. My time in South America will help to reevaluate my over consumption of certain things: phone, car, internet, coffee , and a couple of others that we won´t mention for the sake of the family. Hee hee, just kidding. But I will use the internet - in moderation - to help provide some specifics that I don´t get into at 30 cents a minute on the phone.

There are many recurrent & integrated themes that come up being an American in Ecuador, in talking with the locals and other travellers or expats. Most concern immigration (esp. to the US), the economic state of the country, family life and the difficulties of making it, political corruption, reaction to global ideas and companies, indigenous rights, and personal safety (for foreigners as well as females). Even in our Spanish lesson books at the language school, Ecuadorian social issues are often brought up. I´ll post more about all of this later, but first wanted to provide a little more about my initial reactions to being here.

Cuenca is the third largest city in Ecuador, which many depict as the cultural capital of Ecuador to Quito as political center and Guayaquil as the economic center. As I mentioned, it has a beautiful city center, with many majestic churches and open plazas, situated above a large river and the majestic mountain ranges are always looming in the distance. [Insert well-framed photo here, depicting main plaza square with greenery diverse flora to the background of a large church, with rays of sun beating down ... I have yet to upload photos!] It´s very busy, bustling with people, cars, buses, shops and street vendors (ok, not sure if shops can bustle but to me they do). It´s also quite clean in the city center, much more so than I expected - cuencanos are very proud of their city and these qualities. Certainly I am not experiencing Ecuador as a whole, staying in one place and in an area described as the ¨best¨ conditions in the country -- but its still an adjustment. The cars & buses drive crazily and have no regard for people walking; the pollution can be terrible; there are so many people selling things everywhere on the street and running around to sell it to you, it can be overwhelming.

I live just outside the city center, which is a nice 15-20 minute walk and the area changes pretty dramatically to be more slum-like (a term I use cringingly for lack of more time to think of a better one). Lots of animals in the street and children roaming around (scary on the later more than the former, for me) and dilapitated buildings. I don´t walk around at night by myself, as a general principle (MOM). I *do* stand out, as most people are ¨mestizo¨ with a very specific Ecuadorian ¨look¨ or are of one of indigenous Andean groups (40% of the country, the majority Quecha speaking). But tourists and foreigners don´t think I look like an obvious foreigner, ha ha. There are a lot of us, mostly Germans, Danish, Americans, and Aussies - I am getting skilled at discerning the differences and can almost take a guess where they are from just by a look and an uttered ¨Hola¨. Anyway, I stand out more because of things like what I wear or my REI or North Face bags. But there are a great many American and European influences, in the items sold and advertised all over town. There´s a Payless Shoe Source and everything you could possibly want at supermarket stores, including my dear American peanut butter (and those products are much more expensive than the other brands, but probably right around what they cost in the US).

The food in Cuenca has turned out to be good, especially for me living with an awesome cook (je t´aime, Julie ... she feeds me too often when I am not there to be eating their food! But it´s hard to turn down a knock at my door followed by some soup, cake, or ... cereal & yogurt! Oh, the way to my heart). I consume lots of fresh fruits, bought at the numerous local open air markets, and my diet consists of a nice balance of veggies and grains. I haven´t eaten out much yet, but there are a lot of options. Most restaurants offer the day´s featured almuerzo (lunch, the most important meal of the day) with soup or salad, sometimes side (such as plantains), fruit juice, meal, and yumy bread (sometimes dessert) for $1-$1.40 max ¡Buen provecho! No guinea pig for me, even when the school wants to take us to a local joint like the tourists that we really are to consume the local delicacy.

It´s time to go to salsa classes at the school! Hope all is well with the wonderful people with the interest to be reading this. =)